All CS-MDV-3s with serial# 2892 & higher are the new V2:
- available up to 15dB volume boost when pedal is on
- much slower speeds available thanks to the dual potentiometer being replaced by 2 x Fulltone Custom-made Optocouplers.
- even more lush and watery 'vibe sound.
- like its identical circuit-twin the CS-MDV mkII, it only draws 35mA of current allowing you to power it with just about any 18 volt DC outlet, or even with 2 x 9 volt DC outlets by using the Voodoo Lab PPY "voltage doubling cable."
All MDV-1 & MDV-3 pedals sold after 2/10/2015 operate exclusively on an 18 volt DC power supply. The Fulltone IPS-18 is the only Noise-Free switching-type adapter you can get, and is included with your purchase. The Fulltone IPS-18 is "regulated" which means it produces exactly 18 volts, keeping the internal bulb at the correct brightness. Do not use other "switching type" power supplies as they all inject hiss, hum, and a high-pitched squeal when using certain effects.
Real Estate is precious, especially on your pedalboard, but the lush organic sounds of a perfect "authentic vintage Univibe clone" are a necessity, and they are now attainable in a space now smaller than a standard wah wah pedal... the Mini-Deja'Vibe3, MDV-3 for short. With a Hammertone Blue powder coated finish, White lettering, and a Blue LED that throbs to the beat of the pedal's hypnotic, asymmetrical rhythm. The MDV-3 has a new heel or toe activated True-Bypass footswitch that is perfect for the person who rarely changes speeds and just wants to turn it on or off with his toe, but also perfect for the person who rides it like a Gas-pedal and wants to turn the pedal on/off with a simple flick of the heel (see the MDV-3 video at youtube.com/fulltoneeffects)
There are a LOT of pedals claiming to be "authentic vintage Univibe clones" on the market...the small ones are merely a glorified MXR phaser filled with opamps with a few capacitor changes. That's not a Univibe! So how is one to know which pedals are real and which ones are just a cheap shortcut?
A real Univibe clone will have:
- 4 x glass covered/hermetically-sealed photocells and an incandescent bulb on the circuit board. I go one step further...and NO ONE else does this, I took many real 1960's 'cells and blueprinted them, not only their dark/bright resistance, but also for their all-important rise and fall times as they react to the light turning on and off. This is deep E.E. stuff, cannot be done unless you have the know-how and the expensive scopes.
- Run at 18+ volts.
- Totally discrete electronics, i.e. NO OPAMPS in the audio path!